I've stayed a few times with friends at The Birches (www.birches.com) on Moosehead Lake. We ski on well-groomed cross-country trails, play cards and tell stories in the cabin or go for a soak in the outdoor hot tub. It's a great getaway. See photos: http://exploringmaine.mainetoday.com/photoalbum.html?id=698
I like camping at Lily Bay State Park. There are a ton of waterfront sites. The lake is big enough you can spend a few days exploring. And the town of Greenville is a great outpost. You can find everything you need in town - including a night out.
Lily Bay SP is a wonderful campground. One night, 'round 2am, we were serenaded by feuding raccoons. They were so loud and vicious sounding, I thought some badger or wolverine was going to tear up our tent. I figured our boys would be terrified... but they slept right through it! The 'coons didn't bother us though. And the loon and owl calls are always magical (even though we have many owls in the woods around our house). We always see deer and often foxes there.
The other best thing about Moosehead: the International Float-Plane Fly-in in Greenville, every year the weekend after Labor Day.
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