ExploringMaine.com
York County: a historical drive
Not everyone's idea of a vacation day in York County involves the beach and shopping. Many visitors are drawn to Maine's southernmost county because there's more than just beaches and bling: This area is filled with history, dating back to the 1600s.
You can learn lots about York County's past in a leisurely day trip that starts in Kittery and ends in Kennebunk. (This is just one suggested drive – there are many more possibilities. Most towns have a Web site outlining historical sites, as do the local Chambers of Commerce.)
Kittery Fort
Kittery is considered the oldest incorporated town in Maine. Settlers came here around 1623, and it became a town in 1647. (Well, some historians believe it was actually incorporated in 1652, but we'll go by what the town says.) It's amazing to learn that the John Bray House, built on Kittery Point in 1662, still stands, making it what is believed to be the oldest existing house in Maine. A bit of Bray House trivia: The current owner is Daryl Hall of Hall & Oates fame. For directions for a drive-by, check Mapquest. Most of Kittery Point lies off Route 103, accessed from the Kittery traffic circle on Route 1.
If you're not interested in finding Mr. Hall, consider a stop at Fort McClary, also on Kittery Point. This piece of land is near the Piscataqua River and the sea, making it a point of strategic interest. In 1715, the Massachusetts Bay Colony decided to erect a breastwork of six guns for defense. A fort was built in 1808; it was named for New Hampshire native Major Andrew McClary, who was killed at the Battle of Bunker Hill in 1775. A blockhouse was constructed in 1844. Part of the blockhouse remains intact and now serves as a museum. The fort was manned during the War of 1812, the Civil War and World War II. FMI: www.fortmcclary.org
Nearby lies Fort Foster, on Gerrish Island. The fort was built in 1873; today it includes access to a small beach and is a recreational destination for many.
If you just can't get enough of Kittery, be sure to check out the Kittery Historical and Naval Society Museum on Rogers Road Extension, at the traffic circle on Route 1. The museum's focus is mostly on the area's shipbuilding heritage, which spans three centuries. (The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard is also in Kittery). You'll find lots of marine artifacts, from anchors to lighthouse lenses. FMI: www.kitterymuseum.com.
Old York
Just north on Route 1, the town of York is proud to be known as the oldest chartered town in America. York was part of a territory that was the oldest incorporated city in America, known as Georgeana, in 1642. York became its own incorporated town in 1652.
In homage to its long history, the town has a section known as Old York, which includes nine historic museum buildings and an archival library. Most of the buildings are clustered near York Village off Route 1A. They include a barn, a tavern, homes, a warehouse and a jail. The Emerson-Wilcox House has had many functions since it was built in 1742 – general store, tavern, tailor shop, post office, residence, and now, home to much of the museum's collections.
The John Hancock Warehouse, built in the 1740s, is the only commercial building from the colonial era still standing. The Old Gaol is the oldest British public building in the U.S. – from 1719 to 1860 this National Historic Landmark held scoundrels and criminals.
FMI: www.oldyork.org
South Berwick Counting House
From York, Route 91 takes you inland to Route 236 and South Berwick. FYI, South Berwick claims to be the site of the oldest permanent settlement in Maine, dating back to 1631. In other words, it's old like Kittery and York, with roots back to the 1600s.
Because it was built inland on the banks of the Salmon Falls River, South Berwick's history includes a long tradition of textile manufacturing. For a look into that era, visit the Counting House Museum on Liberty Street and Main Street/Route 4.
The Counting House was built besides the Portsmouth Manufacturing Co., a cotton textile mill erected in 1831. The building not only housed the accounting offices; upstairs, still intact, is one of the last remaining mill ballrooms in New England. The mill owners built them for their employees, for the occasional soiree.
Today the museum is home to the Old Berwick Society, which archives the histories of the three Berwicks: North, South and Berwick. You'll find historic curios, documents and photographs. FMI: www.obhs.net
For more local history, visit author Sarah Orne Jewett's house downtown, built in 1774, now a National Historic landmark. A couple miles from town, traveling south on Route 236, follow directions to the Hamilton House, a beautiful Georgian home built around 1775. The Hamilton House is known not only for its architecture, but also its traditional English gardens and a beautiful lawn that sits high above the Salmon Falls River. Jewett helped preserve this house, also a National Historic landmark. FMI on both houses: www.historicnewengland.org.
Kennebunk's Brick Store Museum
A great place to soak in the cultural and artistic heritage of the Kennebunks is the Brick Store Museum. The brick buildings that comprise the museum were built around 1825; the museum first opened in the building that once housed a dry goods store built by wealthy Kennebunk merchant and ship owner William Lord.
The museum has extensive archives, plus ongoing and special exhibits featuring the history of the seafaring Kennebunks. It's also part of the town's national historic district, which includes the Wedding Cake House. The house's name comes from the ornate trim that resembles icing on wedding cake. The Federal-style house with Carpenter Gothic touches was built in 1825 by George Bourne. Today it's said to be the most photographed house in Maine. The Wedding Cake House is on Summer Street, also known as Route 35. Many of the homes along this road are also part of the historic trail. FMI: www.brickstoremuseum.org
If there's any daylight left, venture down Route 35 to Kennebunkport, where more Maine history awaits. And so does a vodka and tonic and a lobster, if you need to come back to the present.
Nancy McCallum is a freelance writer who lives in Sanford.